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Francisco Carrión

HISTORIAS

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En la ciudad de Cavafis

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Una ceremonia íntima, casi clandestina, rinde hoy homenaje al gran poeta griego Constantino Petrou Cavafis. Frente a su tumba, en el majestuoso cementerio griego de Alejandría, un breve recital poéticocelebra las efemérides de su vida: los 150 años de su nacimiento y los 80 de su muerte. Su particular Ítaca (ciudad de ptolomeos, helenos, bizantinos, romanos o árabes) sólo existe en sus versos. ‘Como dispuesto desde hace tiempo, como un valiente,/ despide, despide a Alejandría que se aleja…’.

“Cavafis tomó una ciudad de la periferia como Alejandría y la puso en el corazón”, narra a ELMUNDO.es el director de la Fundación Helénica de Cultura en Alejandría, Manolis Marangoulis. La villa mediterránea (creada, según la mitología, por Proteo y fundada por Alejandro Magno) fue en los siglos XIX y parte del XX un lugar cosmopolita, distinguido y próspero. Griegos, italianos, judíos, franceses o británicos hicieron fortuna y levantaron un callejero con intenso sabor europeo.

El paraíso donde Cavafis nació, pasó gran parte de su vida y murió arroja hoy “ruinas sombrías”. El viejo tranvía aún avanza por sus calles, invadidas por los vendedores ambulantes y una recatada clientela; sólo unos cuantos viejos cafés resisten y (lejos de la sensualidad de antaño) el mar guarda las caricias furtivas de jóvenes amantes. El legado que empezó a declinar con el nacionalismo de Gamal Abdel Naser pervive sepultado hoy en un bastión de los islamistas.

Fotografías: F.J. Carrión
Fotografías: F.J. Carrión

‘Mas algo había que hacer’

El modesto apartamento del poeta, junto a una callejuela bautizada recientemente con su nombre, todavía se ubica entre dos de sus coordenadas: “Los templos del alma y el cuerpo” del patriarcado ortodoxo griego y el hospital griego. Pero ha perdido la tercera referencia, la del “santuario de la carne” o los burdeles que frecuentaba Cavafis, escritor homosexual que ni se reprimió ni hizo bandera de su condición. “Mas algo había que hacer. Se hizo asiduo/ de los prostíbulos de Alejandría,/ de cada secreto antro de vicio”, escribió Cavafis.

Con el mobiliario reconstruido a través de fotografías, la Casa Cavafis de Alejandría recibe cada año la peregrinación de cientos de sus compatriotas. El libro de visitas es un emocionante homenaje al poeta de la diáspora. “Es muy revelador: la cosmopolita y próspera ciudad, hogar de una comunidad helenística de la que Cavafis fue miembro, ya no existe (…). Muy conservadora, ruidosa pero aún mucho más bella que El Cairo”, relata uno de los últimos testimonios escritos en el volumen.

“Cavafis no habría existido sin su ciudad, Alejandría. Siempre se sintió ‘griego’, pero en absoluto en el sentido étnico. Su ‘grecidad’ es la lengua griega pero sin nada que ver con un sentido etnocentrista, como ocurría y ocurre en los griegos de Grecia”, explica a este diario el helenista Pedro Bádenas, responsable de la traducción de ‘Poesía completa’ (Alianza Editorial). “El método al que recurre es muy sencillo: vehicula sus preocupaciones intelectuales, existenciales y artísticas mediante un inteligentísimo uso de la historia, en la que Alejandría ocupa un lugar único desde la antigüedad ptolemaica, helenística, romana, paleocristiana bizantina, árabe…”, agrega.

Fotografías: F.J. Carrión
Fotografías: F.J. Carrión

Que el camino sea largo

Ítaca es, para muchos lectores, el puerto que descubre su obra: ‘Cuando emprendas tu viaje a Ítaca/ pide que el camino sea largo,/ lleno de aventuras, lleno de experiencias…’. “Es uno de esos poemas en que un personaje, un episodio o un símbolo clásico es presentado con una mirada que los actualiza, sin dejar de ser lo que son. El viaje de Ulises de regreso a su isla natal al término de la guerra de Troya es un símbolo eterno que el poeta invierte. Se convierte así en un himno a la vida, una invitación a la plenitud de la vida, en que se aúnen saber, placer y poesía. Esa invitación poética parece realmente sobrecogedora”, explica el helenista chileno Miguel Castillo Didier.

A su juicio, Cavafis (un autor traducido varias decenas de veces al español) canta a Alejandría en todas “sus épocas y aspectos”. A la ciudad que un Ptolomeo llama “la ciudad maestra, la cumbre del mundo panhelénico”; a la villa árabe (‘Alejandría siempre es ella’) y a la queasoma desde el balcón en un atardecer de 1917: ‘Para cambiar de pensamientos mirando al menos / un poco de la ciudad amada’. “Así que podemos decir que Cavafis canta a Alejandría, una y múltiple; una ciudad que cuando la conocemos nos atrae y nos captura con los ‘ecos de una historia extraordinaria’ y una realidad actual apasionante”, concluye.

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